5F1 Champ Parts List

The Fender 5F1 Tweed Champ is the classic first amp build: a simple single-ended circuit with one 12AX7, one 6V6 and a 5Y3 rectifier, making about 5 watts of sweet, touch-sensitive tone. This parts list covers a typical 5F1 build with JJ valves and Hammond transformers, with links to each part in our Australian store.

Safety first: a valve amp carries lethal voltages, even after it's switched off and unplugged. If you haven't worked with high voltages before, get help from someone experienced, and read our valve amp safety notes before you start.

This list follows Rob Robinette's annotated 5F1 schematic. Rob's website is an excellent resource on how valve amps work. Always check the values against the schematic you're building from.

Valves

The easy option is our Fender Champ retube kit, which includes all three valves below (JJ as standard, or choose your own brands).

• Preamp: 1 × 12AX7, such as the JJ 12AX7 / ECC83S. For a little less gain and more clean headroom, try a JJ 12AT7 or 5751.
• Power: 1 × 6V6, such as the JJ 6V6S
• Rectifier: 1 × 5Y3, such as the JJ 5Y3S. Read Understanding Rectifier Tubes to learn why it matters.

Transformers

• Power transformer: the Hammond 291AEX, a 240 V drop-in for the Tweed Champ (5E1, 5F1) and many other small Fenders. It supplies the high voltage plus the 6.3 V and 5 V heater windings.
• Output transformer (5 W single-ended): choose one:
  • the Hammond 1750C, with a 3.2 Ω secondary to suit a 4 Ω speaker, like the original
  • the 1760C, with 3.2, 8 and 16 Ω taps for more speaker choice
  • the 1760CP, a classic paper-wound version with 4 and 8 Ω taps

Chassis and board

• Chassis: our 5F1 Tweed Champ-style chassis, polished, with a screen-printed front panel
• Turret board: a ready-made 5F1 turret board, with turrets already fitted
• Valve sockets: 1 × 9-pin for the 12AX7 and 2 × octal for the 6V6 and 5Y3, such as our Fender-style octal ceramic sockets. See all valve sockets.
• Valve retainers: octal tube retainer clips
• Mounting hardware: screws and washers, turret board stand-offs and solder lugs for grounding
• Grommets and strain relief: rubber grommets and a cable gland for the mains lead

Resistors

We recommend 1 W metal oxide resistors unless stated otherwise:

• 1 × 1 MΩ (input grid)
• 2 × 68 kΩ (input grid stoppers)
• 2 × 100 kΩ (12AX7 plates)
• 2 × 1.5 kΩ (12AX7 cathodes)
• 1 × 220 kΩ (6V6 grid)
• 1 × 22 kΩ (negative feedback)
• 1 × 470 Ω (6V6 cathode). A 3 W metal oxide gives extra headroom here.
• 1 × 10 kΩ 2 W (power supply), from our 2 W metal oxide resistors
• 1 × 22 kΩ 2 W (power supply), from our 2 W metal oxide resistors

Capacitors

• 2 × 8 µF 450 V electrolytic (filter), such as the Evatco 8 µF 450 V axial, or a dual 8 + 8 µF 450 V
• 1 × 16 µF 450 V or higher electrolytic (filter), such as the Evatco 16 µF 500 V axial
• 2 × 25 µF 25 V or 50 V electrolytic (cathode bypass), such as the 25 µF 50 V axial
• 2 × 0.022 µF 630 V film (coupling), such as our 630 V metal film polypropylene capacitors

See all capacitors.

Controls, jacks and power

• Volume: 1 × 1 MΩ audio pot, such as the Bourns 1M audio pot, or an Alpha 1M switched pot if you want the power switch on the volume control
• Input jacks: 2 × 1/4" mono (the 5F1 has high and low inputs), such as the Switchcraft Type 11
• Speaker jack: 1 × 1/4" mono, from our jacks and plugs
• Power switch: a Carling Fender-style SPST toggle (not needed if you use the switched pot)
• Impedance switch (optional): only if you fit a multi-tap 1760C and want to select speaker impedance, from our switches
• Fuse: a 3AG fuse holder and a slow-blow fuse rated for your power transformer, from our fuses and fuse holders
• Pilot light: a jewel bezel and a dial lamp bulb
• Mains lead: a 240 V mains cord with an earth (always earth the chassis)
• Knob: from our amp knobs

Wiring

• Hook-up wire: 18 to 20 AWG vintage cloth pushback wire
• Heater wire: twisted heater wire
• Shielded cable: shielded audio hook-up cable for the input
• Buss wire: 18 AWG buss wire
• Heat shrink: a heat shrink pack to insulate mains connections

Speaker

• The original Champ used an 8" speaker, such as the Jensen P8R 4 Ω (pair it with the 1750C) or the Jensen P8R 8 Ω (pair it with an 8 Ω tap on the 1760C or 1760CP).
• Our tip: if you're building your own cabinet, make it take a 10" speaker for a fuller sound, such as the Jensen P10R 8 Ω. Always match the speaker impedance to the output transformer tap.

Cabinet and covering

• Cabinet: a pine or birch ply Tweed Champ-style cabinet, sized for your chosen speaker and chassis
• Covering: our gold tweed authentic woven fabric, or choose from our tolex range
• Grill cloth: beige, brown and gold stripe grill cloth for the classic tweed look
• How much do you need? Our free Tolex & Grill Cloth Estimator works it out for you.
• Handle: a Fender-style brown leather handle, plus chassis straps and feet

Build tips

• Plan your layout: work out the chassis layout and wiring runs before you start, so everything fits and works.
• Test as you go: check your work step by step, and bring the amp up slowly the first time, so problems are easy to trace.
• Tools: a temperature-controlled soldering iron, a multimeter, wire trimmers and a step drill

Thinking about something bigger?

Read Should I build a 5F1 or 5F3?, or see our 5E3 Tweed Deluxe parts list for the next step up.

Feel free to adjust the parts to suit your preferences and the schematic you're building from. Every part above is in stock at Evatco, Australia's valve amp parts specialist, with same-day shipping on weekday orders placed before 1:00pm. Enjoy the build!